Mt. Shasta – Avalanche Gulch
Cascades, CA
Elevation Profile
Current Conditions
Bottom Line
A storm system arrives Thursday night with 97-100% precip probability, heavy snow, and winds 32-40 mph SSE at the valley — that's easily 60-80 mph on Shasta's upper mountain. Wednesday is your last viable summit window. If you're not down by Thursday afternoon, you're riding out a serious storm at basecamp or on the route.
49°/40°F · Partly Cloudy
No Rating (0/5)
0" depth
Elevated flows · 5 gauges
No active fires within 50 miles
10h 1m daylight · Sunrise 6:53 AM · Sunset 4:54 PM
Full Briefing
Stream crossing data pulled for this briefing is from Central California gauges and is not relevant to the Shasta approach. Fire conditions are clean. Bottom line on logistics: camp at Horse Camp or basecamp Wednesday, summit attempt Wednesday pre-dawn, descend fully by early Thursday afternoon at the latest. If the storm accelerates — watch for winds exceeding forecast Thursday morning — pull off the mountain early. This system is not one to get caught in at elevation.
Waypoints
Bunny Flat Trailhead
Trailhead at Bunny Flat. Self-register for permits here.
6,791 ft
Horse Camp / Sierra Club Hut
Historic stone hut. Spring water available. Good acclimatization camp.
7,999 ft
Helen Lake
High camp at Helen Lake. Snow camping on the glacier.
10,200 ft
Red Banks
Volcanic rock band. Crux of the route. Bergschrund crossing early season.
12,999 ft
Mt. Shasta Summit
Summit at 14,179 ft. Sulfurous fumaroles near the top.
14,180 ft
Route Details
Distance
11.5 mi
Elevation Gain
7,500 ft
Elevation Loss
7,500 ft
Max Elevation
14,180 ft
Estimated Days
2
Trailhead
Bunny Flat
Best Season
May through July for best snow conditions. Later season is loose scree.
Permit Required
Summit pass ($25) and wilderness permit required. Available online or at the ranger station in Mt. Shasta city.
About This Route
Avalanche Gulch is the standard climbing route on Mt. Shasta (14,179 ft), a massive volcanic peak in northern California. The route is a non-technical snow climb but requires crampons, an ice axe, and self-arrest skills. The sheer vertical gain—over 7,000 feet from trailhead to summit—makes it one of the most demanding day climbs in the lower 48. The route ascends from Bunny Flat through the Sierra Club hut area, past Helen Lake (a common high camp), and up the steepening Avalanche Gulch to the Red Banks—a band of volcanic rock at 13,000 feet. Above the Red Banks, the route traverses Misery Hill before the final push to the summit. Alpine starts (1-2 AM) are essential to catch firm snow and avoid rockfall in the gulch. The mountain creates its own weather and can go from sunny to whiteout in minutes. A summit pass and wilderness permit are required. Wag bags are mandatory for human waste above treeline.
Plan This Route
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Plan This Route