Grand Teton – Owen-Spalding Route
Tetons, WY
Elevation Profile
Current Conditions
Bottom Line
Winter Weather Advisory in effect today through 11 PM MDT — active storm with snow showers, 19°F highs, and 28-33 mph WNW winds at valley level means ridgeline gusts likely 55-65 mph on the Teton crest right now. Friday looks nearly identical. Saturday is your first realistic weather window with clearing skies and winds dropping to 16-21 mph. Plan your summit bid for Saturday with a very early start.
19°/6°F · Snow Showers · 1 alert(s)
No Rating (0/5)
52" depth
Elevated flows · 5 gauges
No active fires within 50 miles
13h 49m daylight · Sunrise 6:28 AM · Sunset 8:16 PM
Full Briefing
The storm running through today and Friday is the defining issue for this trip. NWS Riverton has a Winter Weather Advisory through 11 PM tonight, with snow showers at 19°F and WNW winds of 28-33 mph at valley level — double that at the Upper Saddle (13,100 ft) and you're looking at sustained 55-65 mph gusts with likely higher spikes. At those winds, the Owen-Spalding crux sections — the Belly Roll, the Chimney — become genuinely dangerous. Today and Friday are non-starters for the upper mountain. Stay at basecamp, rest, and let the storm cycle through.
The avalanche bulletin shows no rating from Bridger-Teton, which reflects the off-season gap in formal forecasting rather than a clean bill of health. The storm is actively loading the approach snowfields and upper route — the Teton Glacier approach and the couloirs feeding the Lower Saddle are getting fresh snow on top of whatever April consolidation existed before this cycle. Watch for shooting cracks, whumpfing, and any recent debris on your approach Thursday or Friday. No formal danger rating doesn't mean no hazard. The advisory language from BTAC is telling you to read the field signs yourself.
Friday Night shows the transition: precip probability drops to 36% and winds shift NNE at 15-22 mph. That's the system clearing. Saturday comes in at 24°F with mostly sunny skies and SSW winds at 16-21 mph — much more manageable at elevation, probably 30-40 mph at the summit ridge, which is workable for an experienced team in good conditions. The window may be brief: Saturday Night brings another chance of snow at 41% probability with northerly winds returning. You need to summit and be descending the Upper Saddle by early Saturday afternoon at the latest to stay ahead of any returning precip.
For logistics: use Thursday as your approach day to the Lower Saddle camp — conditions should be marginal but passable, and getting in position matters. The SNOTEL data isn't Teton-specific (Long Lake at 840 ft and McNeil Canyon at 1,348 ft are irrelevant to your route), so assume 52 inches of snow depth from the conditions status and plan accordingly for the approach. The stream gauge data is from California systems and not applicable here. With 13+ hours of daylight and sunrise at 6:28 AM, a 3 AM Lower Saddle departure Saturday puts you on the summit mid-morning with full daylight margin for descent before any afternoon weather returns.
Waypoints
Lupine Meadows Trailhead
Main trailhead. Start well before dawn on summit day.
6,801 ft
Garnet Canyon Meadows
Meadows in Garnet Canyon. Trail steepens significantly above here.
9,501 ft
Lower Saddle Bivy
Bivy site at the Lower Saddle. Cramped platforms with incredible views.
11,601 ft
Upper Saddle
Base of the Owen-Spalding route proper. Rope up here.
12,999 ft
Grand Teton Summit
Summit at 13,775 ft. Sign the summit register. Descend same route.
13,776 ft
Route Details
Distance
13.0 mi
Elevation Gain
7,001 ft
Elevation Loss
7,001 ft
Max Elevation
13,776 ft
Estimated Days
2
Trailhead
Lupine Meadows
Best Season
July through September. Route may hold snow early season.
Permit Required
Climbing permit required from Grand Teton National Park. Register at Jenny Lake Ranger Station.
About This Route
The Owen-Spalding route is the most popular climbing route on the Grand Teton (13,775 ft), the iconic peak that dominates the Jackson Hole skyline. This classic mountaineering route involves sustained scrambling, a few moves of low 5th class climbing, and significant exposure. The approach follows the standard Garnet Canyon trail to the Lower Saddle at 11,600 feet, where most parties bivy for the night. From the saddle, the route climbs through the Black Dike, traverses the Upper Saddle, and ascends the Owen-Spalding couloir to the summit ridge. The final moves to the summit involve exposed scrambling. The route requires basic rock climbing skills, comfort with exposure, and excellent fitness. Most parties hire a guide for their first ascent. A climbing permit is required. Start from the Lower Saddle before dawn to avoid afternoon storms and to have the mountain to yourself.
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